Investment Calculator

Project a portfolio forward — with contributions, fees and inflation taken seriously.

Runs in your browser Free, no sign-up Updated 2026-08-21

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Nominal value is a flattering number

Almost every investment projection you see online reports the nominal figure — the raw dollar total at the end. It is technically correct and practically misleading, because those future dollars buy less than today's do. $1,000,000 in thirty years at 2.5% inflation has roughly the purchasing power of $477,000 today.

That is why this calculator reports both. Plan your retirement, your house deposit or your children's education against the inflation-adjusted column, and treat the nominal column as trivia.

Fees compound too

Net returnnet = expected return − annual fee Future value = FV(net), not FV(gross)

A 1% fee sounds like 1% of the outcome. It is not. The fee is charged every year on the whole balance, and every dollar it removes also stops earning. On a 30-year horizon at 8%, moving from a 0.05% index fund to a 1.0% actively managed fund can cost roughly 20–25% of the final portfolio. Set the fee field to 1% and then to 0.05% and watch the “lost to fees” figure move.

Risk, diversification and what you are actually buying

An expected return is not a promise; it is the average outcome of a distribution, and the width of that distribution is the risk. Broad stock indices have historically returned around 10% nominally, but with individual years ranging from roughly −37% to +37%.

Rough long-run behaviour by asset type
AssetLong-run nominal returnWorst common drawdown
Cash / savings2–5%None nominally — loses to inflation
Government bonds3–5%10–20%
Broad stock index7–10%40–55%
Single companyAnything100%

The bottom row is the one to sit with. Individual companies can and do go to zero; an index cannot, because it continuously replaces failures with survivors. That is the entire mechanical argument for diversification, and it costs nothing to implement.

Your time horizon should drive the mix more than your appetite for excitement. Money needed within five years has no business being in equities, because there is no reliable way to guarantee it will have recovered by the time you need it. Money not needed for twenty years has historically had ample time to ride out even severe falls.

The largest destroyer of real-world returns is not fees or bad fund picking — it is selling during a fall and buying back after the recovery. A written plan you follow mechanically beats a better plan you abandon.

What the projection cannot know

This is arithmetic, not a forecast. Real returns arrive unevenly and the order matters, especially near retirement — a bad first five years of withdrawals damages a portfolio far more than the same bad years at the start of accumulation. Three habits make the maths more likely to work out:

  • Automate the monthly contribution so the plan does not depend on willpower.
  • Diversify so one company's failure is not your failure.
  • Keep costs low, because it is the only variable in the model you fully control.

Nothing here is financial advice, and past averages are not a promise. Use it to compare scenarios, not to predict one.

Frequently asked questions

What is dollar-cost averaging and does it work?

It means investing a fixed amount at regular intervals regardless of price, which buys more units when prices are low. It reduces the risk of investing everything just before a fall, and it removes timing decisions entirely. Historically it has slightly underperformed investing a lump sum immediately, because markets rise more often than they fall — but it is far easier to stick to.

How often should I rebalance?

Once a year, or whenever an allocation drifts more than about five percentage points from its target, is the common guidance. Rebalancing more often adds costs and taxes without improving returns; never rebalancing lets a portfolio drift steadily riskier during a long bull market.

What is a realistic expected return?

Long-run averages often quoted are roughly 10% nominal for US large-cap stocks and 5–6% for a balanced stock/bond mix, before inflation. Subtracting 2–3% for inflation gives the real return. Any thirty-year period can differ substantially, so run a pessimistic case as well.

Should I invest a lump sum or spread it out?

Historically, investing a lump sum immediately has beaten spreading it out roughly two thirds of the time, simply because markets rise more often than they fall. Spreading it out reduces regret and volatility, which has real behavioural value even when it costs a little expected return.

How do I account for taxes?

For a tax-advantaged account (401(k), IRA, ISA, pension), the projection above is close to right. For a taxable account, reduce the expected return by your effective tax drag on dividends and realised gains — often 0.3–1.0% a year for a low-turnover fund.

How much should I keep in cash rather than invested?

The usual guidance is three to six months of essential expenses in an easily accessible account, more if your income is irregular or you support dependants. Money you will need within about five years generally does not belong in the stock market, because there is no reliable way to guarantee a recovery on your timetable.

Does this work for SIP or monthly plans?

Yes. The monthly investment field is exactly a systematic investment plan. Set the initial investment to zero if you are starting from nothing.